01/12/2014 at 7:50 pm #14124
Here is my Slog-Schooner in progress. More detail on how I am making it can be found HERE
The Mold made out of foam board approx 40yorts by 9 yorts by 8 yorts.
01/12/2014 at 7:51 pm #14126
Filling the Mold – One layer at a time using spray on gap filling insulation foam.
01/12/2014 at 7:52 pm #14128
Fresh out of the mold
01/12/2014 at 11:57 pm #14136
Thom, you are one hardcore Oithling. That’s freakin’ amazing.01/14/2014 at 11:24 pm #14242
I’m currently making hills. Just, y’know, some hills.01/15/2014 at 9:19 am #14254
Do the hills have eyes?!?!? We could make a movie!01/15/2014 at 10:58 pm #14285
I think they’re alive with the sound of music.01/18/2014 at 12:43 am #14430
They’re currently sitting on my desk, frustrating the heck out of me with massive cracks in the spackled bits. One more coat…
Finally,_finally_, I’ve just now gotten a buddy into Heavy Gear Blitz. We’ve been like hyperactive kids, planning out boards and terrain.
“I want to build this!”
“Sweet! Yeah! Lets do that tomorrow!”
And then we resume eating Cookie Crisp and watching G.I. Joe amidst a pile of legos and comic books until my mom tells me its time to come home.
But anyway, do you have any new pics? Sketches?01/18/2014 at 11:59 am #14447
If I may make a suggestion? Extruded Foam insulation makes great hills. Its not like regular styrofoam – when you cut it, little pieces don’t fly all over and it leaves a smooth surface.
You might want to look over at Terrain Thralls – they have lots of great tutorials!01/18/2014 at 10:45 pm #14483
I find that women make great hills. I don’t suggest you cut them like foam, however.01/18/2014 at 11:49 pm #14485
A friend of mine tried to hire …. female entertainers… for my bachelor party. We were playing 40k and he wanted them to move the pieces for us. He was told it was too demeaning.01/18/2014 at 11:53 pm #14489
I completed filling in a lot of the bigger holes and bubbles inside the body today. This foam insulation stuff really makes a great slog, but it’s sticky as all heck.
Big hunks cut easily with a hand saw and I have experimented (successfully) with a foam cutter for shaping. Downside is the stuff is REALLY sticky and you need it to cure up all the way (48 hours ish) before you start monkeying with it.
That means I should be getting around to shaping for reals on Monday. Now to find some decent sized eyes…01/19/2014 at 12:09 am #14493
You just need to hire a different sort of help. Oddly enough the ones who just bring you drinks and move your game pieces cost way more than the ones who shake their tits in your face.01/19/2014 at 12:47 pm #14503
So obviously we used the wrong search string!01/19/2014 at 1:15 pm #14515
I haven’t played around much with extruded foam, but I’ve seen a lot of neat projects that used it. Most of them involved a lot of ooky organic shapes. I think I’d like a little more control over what I’m shaping though, but building a mold box like you did has for some reason never occurred to me and is a great idea for getting a basic shape down.
I’m using dense pink insulation foam, which is resilient and pretty good about not crumbling everywhere. You can buy a sheet about the size of your car for about fifteen bucks from Home Depot.
Useful linky: http://www.3t-studios.com/archives/2642
As for the slog, I’d check out doll eyes at your friendly local Hobby Lobby. Glue those suckers down, then sculpt lids around them with your favorite putty, blending it into the foam.
Are you going to leave the foam bare? It’s got a nice texture for slog hide, but I’d be afraid of bits of it breaking off.01/19/2014 at 1:36 pm #14519
That pink stuff is the extruded foam siding :D. Invest $10 in a foam cutter, then I usually make a base out of 1/8″ MDF, cut layers in height bands (for miniature measurement). Throw a healthy coat of enamel paint on it, throw dirt on it while its wet. Let dry, flock and add your detail!
I’m planning on experimenting with Kry6lon satin finish. I was thinking a healthy coat of brown to cover the base material and dust it with bright golden-yellow should give it a sponge cake look and help protect it!.01/19/2014 at 3:59 pm #14532
Airbrushes, dude. I have recently become absolutely enamored with the things.01/19/2014 at 4:55 pm #14539
I must agree with Crudeboy–airbrushing is the way to go.01/19/2014 at 6:05 pm #14546
I fear air brushing… What kind of paint do you use and how do you dilute it… Plus, this thing is HUGE.01/20/2014 at 12:30 am #14559
Turns out it’s really not that hard. I just read up about it quite a bit before borrowing a couple of my buddy’s brushes and compressor and just diving in.
Starting out I’d recommend just looking at eBay for the bundle deals. It’s somewhere between $150-$200 for a cheap brush, decent tank compressor, and a small assortment of bits and bobs. While the brush itself isn’t the best, it is good for learning how to use one, and works just fine for doing basecoats and such.
Option two is to get a couple 40% off coupons from Hobby Lobby, pick up an Iwata Neo CN for about $40 after discount, and then either go to a different store in town that day, or go back the next and use the other coupon on a compressor. The one I have is just the little Sparmax piston compressor that isn’t amazing but gets the job done, and is a super fly metallic orange color.
Option three, find a buddy with a setup and ask to use his until you get the hang of it.
As far as paints go you can use pretty much any decent acrylic paint with little thinning. The “Createx” brand at Hobby Lobby for airbrushes isn’t bad, but I regularly run Reaper Master Series and Vallejo through mine. Vallejo also has an entire line of airbrush-ready paints, “Vallejo Model Air”, and Badger recently came out with a line called “Minitaire” that I’ve heard good things about.
Generally you can just thin with a little water or some sort of airbrush thinning medium. Createx has a big bottle, I use Vallejo’s, and I’m pretty sure Liquitex has some too. Also grab a bottle of Windex, it works like a champ for cleaning out the brush between colors or when you’re finished for the day.
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